Logbook, August, Laura here.
Ireland. Walk along the Dingle Way. Seven days of walking, about 25 kilometers a day.
The Dingle Way is a route in County Kerry, which goes completely around the Dingle Peninsula, among green pastures, mountain paths, beaches and cliffs overlooking the ocean. Walking has become our holiday method for three years now. After having walked two paths in Italy, we decided to have this experience in another country.
Day One: Tralee to Camp
The Irish are very welcoming, passing us in the car they never miss an opportunity to say hello. Reciprocating this kindness puts a smile on my face every time and fills me with enthusiasm. Who knows if they do it with everyone, since few people pass through here, or if they notice our backpack and know the route.
This stretch is very adventurous: paths, streams, bridges, ladders leading from one property/pasture to another, sheep and cows everywhere.
The landscape looks like that of the Lord of the Rings: the hills are green and bare, but if you look closer you realize that they are covered with small prickly shrubs, a regular carpet on the surface that you never know how deep it might be. The orange Crocosmia, which grows spontaneously along the streets, accompanies us on our journey and, with its colours, seems to continually remind us that we are in Ireland.
We are warmly welcomed by the owner of the b&b. The room overlooks the ocean, tomorrow we will see the first beaches!
Second day: Camp to Annascaul
Immersing myself in different places and climates makes me feel different, it essentially changes the way I perceive myself. Maybe it's the effect of the wind on the skin and swollen eyes. Maybe it's the kilometers that are starting to feel on your legs. I feel my body more active and my mind freer, ready to grasp every detail of this landscape and every nuance of an accent that sounds very different to the ear, influenced by Gaelic.
We go into a pub, people ask us how we are and where we come from. It seems so easy to find yourself talking to these new acquaintances over a Guinness. We willingly listen to the stories of their lives.
Traveling with very few clothes, here the thought of what to wear just doesn't arise, what a freedom. Upon arrival at the b&b, after the shower we wash our clothes, wring them well in a towel and hang them outdoors or near a window, so the next morning we put them clean in our backpack.
Day three: Annascaul to Dingle
This trip is definitely resilience training. It's an exercise in moving forward even when conditions are not optimal. Rain? You walk. Do your legs hurt? You walk. Do you have your period? You walk.
You have to get to the goal.
I listen to my body with unusual attention, everything depends on it. I try to give him the energy he needs: I remind myself to drink often, in the evening I stretch to loosen up the most tense points. The shoulders and the point at the base of the neck are very stressed, because they hold the weight of the backpack. When we get up after a longer break, our legs are sore and it always makes me laugh so much, because we seem to walk like robots. However, all we need is a night's sleep to fully recover our strength.
Mental attitude is as important as physical attitude. I try to focus on positive thoughts, which is quite easy when you are immersed in so much beauty. If thoughts and fears creep in, I try to motivate myself. When I fear I won't make it, I repeat phrases like “in any case it will be done” or "one step at a time”, but also “Now I have no reason to worry, I'm waiting for the problem to arise”.
Once we arrive in Dingle we discover that it is a more touristy and popular town, we see many places where they play traditional Irish music.
Day Four: Dingle to Dunquin
When you think you have no energy left, you actually still have some. We are much stronger than we think and this heartens me.
We have traveled the most beautiful stretch so far. The ocean on one side, beyond the wall, and steep hills on the other, full of sheep enjoying the beautiful view and peeking out here and there to watch you go by.
It was a particularly long stage, we arrived at the "tip" of the peninsula and halfway through our route. You feel like you are in a remote place, the wind is strong and the landscape is spectacular (Star Wars was also filmed here).
Day five: Dunquin to Feohanagh
I find inspiration among the colors of nature. I can't help but notice particular colors on the ocean beach and collect pebbles and shells to create new palettes.
We walk on the coastal cliffs at the end of the peninsula, at the westernmost point of the island. Below us immense boulders of dark brown and purple color, on which the ocean waves crash. I try to take a photo, but you don't perceive the same magnificence, why? I think it has to do with that feeling of awe and grandeur that views like this can shake within you. A photo cannot capture such an elusive emotion.
For the night, we booked a room in the only pub in the area. After a dinner at 6.30pm, by 8.30pm we already have our cheeks on the pillow. From outside we begin to hear increasingly louder music, which even imposes itself on people's voices. We can't resist, we go back to the pub and spend a wonderful evening of traditional music. In the breaks between songs someone gets up to share a story and sing a song. What a richness these moments are.
Day six: Feohanagh to Cloghane
The day begins. While we are still walking, the stories and songs of the night before resonate in our minds. Stories of Irish people who emigrated to America at the beginning of the 1900s, who carried their island in their hearts and sang its beauty to the new generations, with songs that are tradition today. Music here is perceived as a moment of union and community life.
We arrive in Cloghane, another very small town. We spend a wonderful evening in the company of travelers who come from all over the world. We listen to classical music played live and watch the spectacle of the eclipse together.
Seventh and final day of walking: from Cloghane to Castlegregory
We walk for almost 20 kilometers on an infinite ocean beach, very different from the ones we are used to. We find enormous shells, very thick seaweed, surreal scenes of horses stopped looking at the ocean on the deserted beach. There is no one around us.
The sound of the waves accompanies us towards the fishing villages. It is a sweet but no less tiring way to conclude this journey.
The end, the rest, the city
At the end of the journey we visit Dublin, we immediately feel the contrast of arriving in a big city. We are still in Ireland and we already miss the experience we just had.
The time for rest has arrived, this journey will remain in our hearts. We experienced the real Ireland, saw spectacular landscapes, tested our physical resistance and met many people from all over the world.
Some travel advice
The walk takes you into another dimension, where time passes slowly and you come into deep contact with yourself and with the places you travel. The body is active and the mind is free, in an open and receptive mode. You easily connect with the people you meet.
It's a simple way of travelling, where you get back to the essentials: a backpack and your energy are all you need.
What I wore:
- merino wool t-shirt: dries quickly and does not retain odors;
- our Jasmine trousers in lightweight cotton poplin. I didn't want synthetic technical trousers, these are loose and very comfortable to move around. They are lightweight, so even when they get wet in the rain they dry very quickly. They have deep pockets and drawstrings at the bottom, which you can close to protect your leg when it's very windy. When it's hot, however, they roll up above the knee and close them with a drawstring;
- trail shoes. It is important that they are comfortable and have a sole suitable for different terrains. I do not recommend waterproof shoes, because they make the foot breathe less and if they get wet inside they are more difficult to dry;
- technical socks in merino wool;
- a bandana or headband, essential for protecting your neck or head from strong winds.
In the backpack, the essentials:
- water bag (capacity two litres). Very convenient for having a supply of water all day and drinking without stopping;
- bar of Marseille soap for washing clothes and, if the b&b is not provided, for the shower;
- small disinfectant spray, for things that you can't wash easily, such as shoes and backpack straps;
- a pair of light sandals to wear in the evening to rest your feet.
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